Alpinesavvy silent. Basket hitch a sling to the cam sling or thumb loop.
Alpinesavvy silent.
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Alpinesavvy silent Your partner above can answer this silent signal by pulling the rope back up. The traditional way to do this is using your ”lead” ladders. (Nerdy big wallers only) Devices exist which are specifically designed for rope-soloing (such as the Silent Partner). Belay, First Steps 1 Alpinesavvy 5/4/21 Belay, First Steps 1 Alpinesavvy 5/4/21 Try a "D" carabiner with your Grigri Because the rope never touches your carabiner when you use a Grigri (or any similar assisted braking device), you can pretty much use any kind of carabiner you like. Or web search: “alpiesavvy silent” . ” When climbing in blocks, where one person leads several pitches in a row, it's important to rig the anchor so the leader can easily unclip and continue. “All Access” gets you ALL the goodies. (Nope, you won’t learn that on Alpinesavvy, Google is your amigo. Feb 14, 2023 · A silent way to signal “off rappel” is for rappeller to grab both rope strands and pull them back-and-forth through the anchor. Examine the terrain (and the beta) before you commit Climb better, safer and smarter with an Alpinesavvy Premium Membership. Coat hanger. Climb better, smarter, and safer with Alpinesavvy. Collaboration and peer review from 2,858 likes, 1,002 comments - alpinesavvy on March 30, 2024: "Belay Communication: the “silent system” Comment with the phrase “SILENTSYSTEM” and I'll DM you a link to my article about this. (Warning: anchor nerds only. Most have links to my detailed articles if you want to learn more. There's more to it than what’s usually taught in books and by many instructors. Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Learn the tricks to make a perfect figure 8, plus how to do it so it's much easier Nov 27, 2018 · Backcountry hiking and climbing: Outdoors and Open Topo The rather boringly titled “Outdoors” layer is a worldwide topo map based on Open Street Map, that has labeled hiking trails, ski runs, and mountain peaks, as well as shaded relief and easy to read contour lines. Double it, tie two a figure 8 or overhand knots (with the stitching in one of the end loops), and then use two strands to make an anchor for both toproping and multipitch. You also get to bend the normal anchor building rules a bit. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of an experienced climber, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. alpinesavvy. Check out a recent article and video by Over the Edge Rescue on this. Oct 18, 2024 · Alpinesavvy Premium Members get a direct link to the gear checklist. Fortunately, there's an easy way to calculate it, requiring the math skills of a third grader. Premium Members get even more. Nov 7, 2022 · Top Rope Soloing (TRS). Inspiring mountain photography. Cancel anytime. Cost is about $5 in materials, and five minutes of your time with basic hand tools. May 15, 2025 · Five more quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. Oct 22, 2023 · 2,066 likes, 78 comments - alpinesavvy on October 22, 2023: "The “easy-to-clean” toprope anchor - Use on “closed” hardware only! . Apr 14, 2025 · Quick tips on best practices, with links to my detailed articles. (This is a free preview from Mark's new online class class on alpine climbing. Nov 27, 2018 · Rather than yelling up “off rappel”, which may or may not be heard if it’s a windy day or you’re out of sight, try this instead: when the rappeler is safe on the ground or at the next anchor and off rappel, she grabs a strand of the rope with each hand, and pulls the strands back and forth in large arm motions, several times. Have a solid communication plan of silent rope pulls, FRS radios, or something similar so you can clearly communicate. There are a lot of companies out there that can help you make a website, get on social media, or design a flier. May 22, 2021 · Especially if the route is overhanging, and if it’s a full rope length, talking/shouting commands (like “Off rappel!”) may be difficult to hear. Check it out Feb 22, 2023 · The retraced figure 8 is probably the most important knot you'll ever tie, so let’s learn the nuances of tying it correctly, every time. Well, here’s the modern iteration of that idea, in a much lighter and more compact package. ️ My website has no ads, paid product promotions, affiliate marketing links, or brand sponsorships. It's acceptable to use this “easy clean "Alpinesavvy is a top-notch resource for both reliable tried-and-true skills and techniques as well as the latest and greatest tricks and tips that should be on every climbers radar. Apr 24, 2025 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. May 2, 2025 · A basic guideline for anchor building: narrow angles are good, wide angles are bad. From single pitch sport climbing to multipitch mountaineering Alpinesavvy has something for everyone. com. I’d like to send you a special link to nine of the most popular articles on my Premium Member pages, AND a short weekly email with four quick tips to help you climb better, safer and smarter. Oct 24, 2018 · Using a cordelette is standard practice for many climbers when building multi-piece gear anchors. Method 1: basket hitch. ️ Alpinesavvy - Helping you climb better, safer, and smarter. It’s free, can’t soak up water, weighs nothing, packs well, and burns great for a few minutes, enough to catch damp tinder. ) Premium Art Feb 16, 2025 · A series of quick tips on best practices. Nov 27, 2018 · A bicycle inner tube cut about 1 inch wide works great for a firestarter. This articles covers: anchor hooks, extending a quickdraw, using a rebelay to protect a fixed rope, “alpine equalization” with cams, cautions on block leading, “casting” your rappel rope, and It's easy to get crosseyed looking at a pulley system and trying to figure out the mechanical advantage. But, there’s a few more tricks than the standard set up that can make your life easier. Anchors 2, Popular Alpinesavvy 3/2/25 Anchors 2, Popular Alpinesavvy 3/2/25 Alpine retreat anchors - Part 2 Retreat (aka bail) anchors or not something you hopefully do very often. Learn more from his website, mtnsense. Here's how you can move them from my Google Drive onto your phone’s backcountry navigation app. Learn multiple ways to rig it, and the pros and cons of each. Feb 27, 2025 · Retreat (aka bail) anchors need to be strong enough for a rappel, use a minimum of gear and cordage, and be simple to rig. No long-term commitment. Jan 25, 2025 · Here are two ways to handle this. ) Jun 2, 2024 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. ) Mar 5, 2024 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Here’s a DIY gear trick that’s handy when cleaning a traversing aid pitch, or maybe a overhanging sport route. However, an adjustable, comfortable and lightweight stirrup is a superior tool. It’ll never increase, provided you keep your membership current. If you're not a Premium Member, you'll have to go to Brent’s blog at the link above and click through and find it yourself. One of the most popular applications for this device. Basket hitch a sling to the cam sling or thumb loop. Here's some additional info on a post I made a couple of weeks ago. Jun 28, 2022 · Check out what IFMGA Certified Guide Mark Smiley takes for a two day Rainier climb up one of the standard routes. My website has more than 150 GPX files for Pacific NW routes. Pay month-to-month. 1) It’s a clear and obvious symbol that they are off rappel, and 2) it does a sort of “test pull” of the ropes and can show the remaining person up top where there might be a Belay Communication: the “silent system” Article link: https://www. Rather than using a huge honker cordelette, instead you use a Dyneema sling; I prefer 180 cm. (Premium Members can read all of ‘em. Curated instructional videos. Now the sling is loaded over the edge of the crack, not the carabiner. But that's a pretty good description of the aptly named cold weather ailment, the “screaming barfies”. Collaboration and peer review from AMGA Certified Rock Guide Derek DeBruin @derekmdebruin, thanks Derek! Photo: me and partner Gent Mende on Moonlight Here’s a good one: the so-called “silent system. Join now and lock in this low price. com Feb 8, 2024 · Alpinesavvy thanks Angelique Brown for translating the French technical documents mentioned in this article, Richard Goldstone for editorial comments, ACMG Alpine Guide Sean Isaac for some FAQ details, and IFMGA Certified Guide Patrick Ormond for a few extra fixed point belay tips. Sep 13, 2023 · Consider using the so-called “silent system” of belay communication to minimize yelling and keep communications clear. We can be your go-to tech advisor. This does a couple of things. However, for climbs much longer than this, or a team of three, or when you or your teammate are significantly lighter than the bags, or if the hauling is on terrain less then vertical, or maybe when you simply want to suffer a lot less, you may well want to add some mechanical Jan 18, 2025 · Having a good quality GPX track file of your intended route is very useful to help stay found and avoid epics. If your partner is not pre-rigged, do a test pull of the rope by pulling down a few meters on the pull strand to be sure it moves properly. . Extending your rappel device away from your harness has a host of benefits . Feb 26, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. This post covers: 1) rappel anchor backups, 2) route hardware bolting tips (stainless steel!), 3) using “rack pack” carabiners, 4) a crafty Klemheist hitch variation, and 5) how to rack an adjustable tether so it won’t trip you up. This post covers: 1) rappel anchor backups, 2) route hardware bolting tips (stainless steel!), 3) using “rack pack” carabiners, 4) a crafty Klemheist hitch variation, and 5) how to rack an adjustable tether so it won’t trip Give it a save and follow @alpinesavvy. 12 feet / 4 meters of 1/8 inch elastic cord. Learn what causes it and how to (maybe) prevent it. Assisted braking belay devices (such as the GriGri) work to some extent, but are fairly unreliable for rope soloing and must be backed up with the technique described here anyway. Over 500 FREE tips and navigation resources for climbing and mountaineering. It’s big enough for a full guide kit or bigger ski mountaineering objectives but can compress down for more average days. Learn where you can maybe cut a few corners and see examples here. Girth hitch an aid climbing fifi hook to an adjustable tether. My Premium Member article also has a link to a longform video with an interview with Brent and discussion of top rope solo and lead rope solo techniques. Learn a few here. Use a “sacrificial” sewn sling, cord, or tubular webbing. com/blog/belay-communication-the-silent-system . Feb 7, 2023 · Stay sharp and practice your anchor skills! If you have a simple training board like this, you can rig up just about anything you can imagine: top rope anchors, rappel transitions, multipitch, and more. Jan 2, 2025 · Here's a trick that saves your rope, using gear you probably already have. If using a sewn sling, you can tie an overhand knot in each end of the sling, creating two redundant strands. Mar 2, 2025 · Note - This post discusses techniques and methods used in vertical rope work. Nov 24, 2023 · In the pack: Mountain Hardware 40 liter pack. A section of the Alpinesavvy website featuring small business, inventors, craftspeople, artists and other great humans making cool climbing gear, Jul 20, 2018 · I’d like to send you a special link to nine of the most popular articles on my Premium Member pages, AND a short weekly email with four quick tips to help you climb better, safer and smarter. “Articles Only” is a more affordable option for website Mar 16, 2025 · Don't you love it when your cold hands feel like there's 100 needles in each one, and to top it off, you feel like throwing up? Nah, me neither. 116K Followers, 651 Following, 1,010 Posts - John Godino | Helping you climb better, safer and smarter (@alpinesavvy) on Instagram: " ️ 550+ climbing tips on website ️ No ads, paid promotions or other fluff ️ Get a free sampler of top Premium articles ⤵️" If you use any of the ideas or information presented here, you acknowledge that the technique may be inaccurate or out of date, and you agree that Alpinesavvy LLC is not responsible or liable for any injury (or worse) that might result from you using the techniques presented here. Dec 17, 2018 · On big wall climbs taking two or three days with a team of two, you can probably use a traditional 1:1 hauling system. 🙏 Thanks! . This post covers: anchor shelf on a tree, “casting” (not throwing) a rappel rope, block leading tip, proper tails on flat overhand knots, and a caution on girth hitched rappel rings. There was a recent, tragic and fatal accident apparently related to this technique using “open” hardware, anchor (aka Mussy) hooks. ) Haul packs or lighter haul bags, with the Traxion on the anchor. Download GPS tracks for more than 70 routes in the Pacific Northwest. alpinesavvy. You MIGHT be able to climb more efficiently, by linking pitches if everything is in alignment, but it doesn’t always lead to a faster or less risky climb. " Ian Nicholson Apr 8, 2025 · Tools and materials to make an ice tool tether: 12 feet / 4 meters of 1/2 inch tubular webbing. First person down takes the rack. Did you climb a route in five pitches instead of seven? Hissing propane lantern, or silent windproof candle? Candles, thank you. Set up a “far end haul” with a 2:1 mechanical advantage on the bag. May 10, 2025 · Aid climbing requires lots of fixed rope ascending. com” to your Contacts, Mar 3, 2021 · Optional but recommended: test pull. and a few problems. ️ 550+ climbing tips and navigation resources. If you do them wrong, you could die. While that’s generally true, it turns out in some cases, a very narrow angle is not so good for load sharing. Always practice vertical rope techniques under the supervision of a qualified instructor, and ideally in a progression: from flat ground, to staircase, to vertical close to the ground before you ever try them in a real climbing situation. (Please add “climb@alpinesavvy. May 24, 2025 · Second, let's look at the more complicated situation: heading down a “non-standard” rappel route. zxwgajlcempzxvjkujnhjvxxfexerhtsgqqkgqotzsh