Self belay top rope grigri The uspise, you can use the grigri to descend without changing devices. Firstly, the climber does not hold the braking side of the rope. To my knowledge, there are no dedicated TRS self-belay devices on the market. It’s quite elegant. Oct 4, 2024 · A GriGri needs a well stacked rope to feed smoothly, so organise the rope before the leader sets off, particularly on hanging belays—a long hanging rope makes feeding the rope very tricky. Dec 5, 2024 · Catch and Bite. Mar 15, 2014 · In reply to plogan5:Hi for what its worth to actualy lead climb the silent partner is best,but you can use a modified grigri,i got advice from a well known climber about this and he said silent partner every time,thats why i chose to top rope instead using a shunt and backup knots and rather jumaring up if i coudnt top out id abseil off by using a prusic above attach etrier step into etrier May 23, 2001 · Has anyone used the Petzl GriGri as a self belay on top-rope? Any beta on technique? I used it on some easy stuff in Leavenworth, solo, but never really took a fall, other than a test from 10' up. com/2022/08/grigri-3-hub-system-for-lead-rope. GriGri's are not auto-locking; you still have to hold the brake rope at all times, just like you would with a normal belay device. Belaying the second in multi-pitch climbing Top-rope belaying with the GRIGRI anchored to the ground. These skills are outside the scope of this article. Connect both devices onto the rope and into your belay loop as shown above. Technical notice. In indoor climbing, this is done for you by the instructors who work there; a rope will already be dangling from the top of your chosen route, and once you know how to belay and have been certified (see below) you simply tie Dec 2, 2013 · The Grigri is not hands-free; it’s assisted-braking. Feb 18, 2014 · Using a gri-gri is a pain though cause it's not self feeding. It is designed so the rope runs over a spring-loaded cam inside the device. Video: Belaying with a Gerke Hoekstra is very experienced in lead rope solo climbing and tope rope solo climbing. This function distinguishes it from traditional belay devices such as a Sticht plate or an ATC, whose braking mechanisms depend entirely on the user controlling the rope in a specific manner to increase or decrease friction. I've been using these techniques and I love the freedom it gives m May 2, 2018 · Fix your 9. Feeds great and is a redundant system, and I don't have to switch to a rappel device at the top. 2) Threading The Rope. Dec 15, 2021 · Can you self belay from above with a grigri? Petzl explicitly prohibits using the grigri as a self-belay device. - For belaying both lead and top rope climbers - Optimally balanced design: lightweight (175 g), compact, and durable - Cam-assisted blocking for a more comfortable belay: when the climber falls or weights the system, the rope tightens, and the cam pivots to pinch and block the rope; Easy to use: Rope soloing is a technique where you belay yourself instead of being belayed by your partner. Further Reading: Why not put your top belay skills to the test on the legendary trad routes of Squamish. It is a great option to retrieve Do not use a grigri for self belay. Feb 10, 2011 · Andy Kirkpatrick is a world-famous climber and award-winning writer and film maker. blogspot. The following characteristics are essential for any self-belay system: Effective and immediate blocking in all situations. Petzl released it in 2017 and claims it is best for top-rope belaying. Comfort and ease of use. Abundant features for a better belay. Assisted braking belay devices like the Grigri are advantageous for lead belaying because arresting falls safely in a lead climbing scenario can be much more complex than top-roping and the extra security you get from the ABD helps mitigate risk. Oct 7, 2022 · My rigging setup for top rope and projecting self belay. For the backup slip-knot, if you are worried that it might come undone, you can also clip a carabiner through the s Feb 16, 2017 · Several new features set the 2017 upgrade apart from the best-selling GRIGRI 2, namely the added “anti-panic” function on the release handle, and the ability to switch from top-rope mode to Sep 21, 2023 · Lots of friction while top rope belaying; Rappelling down a single strand of rope with a GriGri; (photo/Honey McNaughton) Belay devices range in price from around $15 to well over $100 Feb 20, 2021 · One should never self line (self-belay on a top rope), without carrying multiple prusik loops and a descender, or two (don't drop it!). Basically, you swap the devices back and forth every belay. This means you’ll need to unweight the self-belay devices mid-pitch, and then either rappel or ascend the rope. In V1 the rope won't self feed thru the grigri so it also won't self feed thru the micro. Test the belay device for proper function. AMGA Certified Rock Instructor Erik Kramer-Webb shares his top tips on top-belaying with a GriGri. That way, you only need to bring one gri gri for the party. Dec 23, 2020 · Don't do V1. From the Petzl website: We cannot ignore the fact that some people use the GRIGRI as a self-belay device. Set up your top rope anchor the same way you normally would. It's a hassle compared to having a belayer, but it works :) Apr 28, 2025 · Here are some tips and the best method for giving a good toprope belay, whether you’re using a tube device like an ATC or a brake-assisted belay device like the grigri. A grigri can fail if oriented upside down. Oct 16, 2020 · There are several different ways to descend with a Grigri - 1) fix one strand of rope, 2) self-lower, and 3) knot block. Rappel the pitch on a single strand, placing a few pieces of directional gear if needed. I tried it for a bit and now use a Trango Cinch and a Petzl Basic on 2 different strands of rope. In V2 the micro will self feed, that's your primary connection and will stay without slack. Even people who have safely used the GriGri since last century have occasionally gone into “GriGri Lock”, grabbing the cam open in a surprise fall. Feb 17, 2024 · My standard operating procedure for multi pitch is to belay the leader with a gri gri and to belay the follower with an atc guide in guide mode off the anchor. Some people remove the little tab on the grigri and grind / sand it smooth so the grigri will orient correctly in a fall. Have you had luck switching to rappel with the Grigri? The weight of the rope below seems to give a firemans belay of sorts- my ATC works fine, just a little more resistance. It’s the ideal belay device for top rope climbing with a specific mode that makes it easier to take up slack. Of these, fixing a strand of rope will usually be the most practical. Sep 19, 2022 · In this guide, we zero in on a particular piece of equipment: the self-belay device. Climbing alone is one way of getting around the lack of a partner. . I use the Shunt, which is not recommended for this purpose. 2-10. The extra safety that Grigri provides wh Whenever I read threads about top rope solo, everyone agrees on using one device to self-belay, and some kind of backup in case your belay device malfunctions. With an anti-panic handle that makes it particularly suited for learning, the GRIGRI + is a cam-assisted blocking device for top rope or lead climbing in the gym or outside. The best and simplist method for top rope self belay BY FAR is to tie in on one end of the top rope and thread the other end through a grigri. Since the device has its own braking mechanism inside the channel that the rope runs through, you can’t just feed the rope out in the same way you would with a placket style In this video, I explain how I lead rope solo using a gri gri. Occasional rope climbing with the GRIGRI. Using a static rope is most convenient, but a dynamic will work as well. Technical information. Face the GriGri with the lever on the left and the plate on the right. Introduction to the Top Rope Solo Self-Belay Device. Use V2. A continuous belay during climbing and all operations. That’s because it has a top-rope mode you can activate that makes taking in slack easier and belaying more comfortable. Jun 27, 2012 · Solo Top Rope Self Belay Advice Some progress capture pulleys and ascenders can be rigged to travel along a fixed line providing a self-belay for a solo top rope climbing experience. Now with both strands on the bottom of the cliff tie into one end of the rope and load your GriGri and attach it to your belay loop with a locking carabiner. 9 to 11mm. There are instructions for leading solo on a grigri online. It can be just as intense and thrilling. More complicated techniques are needed to solo an overnight alpine route or aid-solo a big wall. GRIGRI® Compact and versatile belay device with cam-assisted blocking for lead and top rope climbing GRIGRI® + Belay device with cam-assisted blocking and anti-panic handle, optimized for learning and top rope climbing Feb 16, 2025 · Properly thread the rope into the Grigri (rope coming from the backpack is the brake rope, rope to the anchor is the “climber side”). There are numerous methods of setting up a self be The alternatives to a grigri are a bit cheaper (although not much, compare 80 micro traction to the 100 grigri) The only downside is you need to pull slack through the grigri as you climb. Jun 6, 2017 · This video shows the proper way to use the Petzl Grigri device. Many internet sites give tips on modifying your device for this use. Redundancy of the belay. You must be aware of where your climber is and what they are doing at all times. This is also known as belaying the second (i. Mar 23, 2024 · Grigri is also phenomenal devices for lead belaying. the second climber). Direct Connection to Belay Loop Jun 4, 2024 · The GRIGRI + has a “lead” and “top-rope” setting and an anti-panic lowering handle. Top-rope belaying with the GRIGRI anchored to the ground. A Grigri’s cam might not engage fully in at least four situations: 1) with super-skinny ropes; 2) an extremely light climber; 3) routes with bulges or significant rope drag that reduce the forces of a fall; and 4) hanging on the rope (versus falling) mid-route. Two lines (for me usually one rope with each side isolated) with the micro on one and the gri-gri on the other. Hands-free position with GRIGRI, GRIGRI + and NEOX. The GriGri is hands-down the most popular active assisted braking device available. In this video, I am self-belaying with a Petzle Grigri to clean the anchors at the end of the day of climbing with my kids. Petzl’s most recent rendition of the Grigri has an anti-panic feature to add security when belaying in top rope mode. Jan 7, 2019 · Customers find the belay device performs flawlessly and is very safe to use, with one customer noting its reliable auto-locking feature during falls. Video: Belaying with a Dec 16, 2022 · The Petzl Grigri, invented in 1991, is single-handedly the most well-known assisted braking belay device. html Oct 28, 2017 · I use this technique when I need to get to the top quickly without a belayer. But if its that easy then just solo it. He and author of 9 books and viewed as an expert in big walling, soloing, and climbing techniques, having climbed El Cap over 40 times and climbed on all seven continents. Keep it above your waist with shoulder slings and a rubber band and tie knots below the gri-gri when you can. When upward tension is placed on the rope, the friction rotates the cam that pinches the rope. Fix the Grigri in an upright position using a chest harness (does not bear any load; can be improvised with a 120cm sling and gear carabiner). You'd be defeating the self feeding of the micro and the rope would pile up and there'd be a mess of loose rope and two devices in your lap. Easy sliding along the rope while climbing. And, for new belayers struggling with the Grigri’s strict auto-locking mechanics, the Neox is a much friendlier option. Now climb and as you reach a comfortable spot every few moves pull the slack though your GriGri. So this belay mode is preferred in the following situations: Supervision of children/beginners learning how to top-rope belay in climbing school. The device is not designed for this purpose, and your safety while doing so is not guaranteed. This is the most important part of any type of belaying. Aug 13, 2024 · The initial feeling of belaying both on lead and top-rope climbing with the Edelrid Pinch was similar to a GRIGRI, outside of a few advantageous differences. A fall onto a slack static rope could injure you (even fatally) or cause the system to fail. Peronally, I use a combination of grigri and petzl asap for lead rope solo, and either a jumar and microtraxion or a jumar and grigri for top rope solo. I have accomplished close to 100 pitches with this system, both free and aid climbing. The GriGri is one of the most reliable catchers among all belay devices. Inspect the GriGri for any damage or wear. You can use this technique to lead or top rope belay. 5 to 11mm rope and the GriGri 2nd Gen takes 8. I have The difference between potential grigri failure with a partner and on self-belay is your partner is holding the rope. I unfortunately missed a quickdr I have used the grigri for self belay on top rope a bunch and it seems fine. When doing a multi-pitch climb, which is a long climb … The Grigri works by pinching the rope when it is moving quickly (like in a fall), making it an assisted braking belay device. e. This is especially true with thinner ropes, very light climbers or if there is rope-drag on the route. Finally, Petzl states that the Feb 3, 2022 · Unlike a standard belaying scenario, the rope goes directly from the anchor through the self-belay device of choice on the climber’s belay loop. When the lead climber reaches the top, he needs to belay up the climber who was belaying at the bottom. Belaying with the GRIGRI. Thus your partner is there to make sure the cam doesn't jam, and even if it does jam he's still holding the rope and should be able to stop the fall. Here’s how I top-rope solo with a GriGri. Then, the rest of the slack rope rests on the GRIGRI® Compact and versatile belay device with cam-assisted blocking for lead and top rope climbing REVERSO® Versatile, lightweight belay/rappel device, for use with one or two rope strands and ability to belay a second climber from the anchor Mar 17, 2022 · While standard belaying is the primary use of the GriGri, the device functions in various climbing applications — from single-rope rappels to complex rescue systems. Above all, this technique increases the risks to the climber. The basic approach is to: tie your rope to a multidirectional anchor that cannot fail, climb as normal placing gear but using a special belay device clipped to your harness, on reaching the next stance rap back down to remove your gear and dismantle the lower belay, climb back up using your chosen solo top-roping approach; then repeat, repeat, repeat. Solo Top Roping is a great way to get a lot of laps in and have a positive training day when you can’t find a partner, or are just looking for some solitude. The GriGri can be a safe belay device, but accidents have happened due to improper use. They appreciate its ease of use, particularly for top rope belaying, and consider it worth the price. You can use the grigri to belay if you do a lot of sport climbing. Because no device is perfect, you must use at least two devices on one rope, or one device each on two separate ropes. The following two guides are based on top rope belaying, where the rope is already anchored at the top of the route. You also need a way to get up or down if you can’t do a move. Includes belaying, lowering, a 3 to 1 pulley system for b Jul 25, 2023 · Grigris are also great tools for belaying top-rope climbers, especially if the climber needs to “hang dog” the route and is sitting on the rope a lot. 4mm rope off a solid top anchor. Since the 90s, climbing belay devices have continually developed, particularly in the assisted braking device category. I also explain in the video why I don't Jan 20, 2014 · Note: Never climb on a slack static rope using the toprope self-belay system. Saftey considerations: The lever of a gri gri is on the left side of the device therefore the grigri must be on the left side of your tie-in figure 8 knot. May 5, 2025 · It is relatively easy to learn the proper belay technique, and the device can be used easily for lead belaying, top-rope belaying, and belaying the follower directly off the anchor. GriGris can be useful in the GriGri+ with HUBBY (Held Upside-down and Backwards Bridal Yoke) for lead rope solohttps://sicgrips. You can absolutely belay a second climber from above using the Grigri—just clip a draw to your anchor, clip the rope with the climber strand closer to the wall, and belay top rope style. With that in mind, it still has the drawback of tempting the user to hold the You can even use a grigri to lead belay in either sport climbing or trad climbing, but there are some key differences to note between top rope belaying and lead belaying. Universal Belay Advice: Pay Attention. Once your climber reaches the anchor and it’s time for them to lead the next pitch, remember to reclip the draw with the climber end facing out, then - For belaying both lead and top rope climbers - Optimally balanced design: lightweight (175 g), compact, and durable - Cam-assisted blocking for a more comfortable belay: when the climber falls or weights the system, the rope tightens, and the cam pivots to pinch and block the rope; Easy to use: Jul 29, 2024 · In fact, even if you’ve only ever known the “new way” of Grigri belaying, the Neox takes rope handling up a notch thanks to its rapid feeding and butter-smooth catches. Icy ropes are more dangerous on toothed devices as ice can build up on the teeth and cam and make it sluggish or make it stick open (remember that they work via a spring). Knowing how to belay from above is an important skill for a climber. With the rope slack coiled and clipped to an overhand bight, ~1m off the ground, I couldn't get the device to rappel. Backup can be a second rope, knots, a second device, etc. How to Belay with a Grigri is one of the most important skills you should learn for climbing, even top-rope climbing. With this system, the rope is threaded for a normal rappel, one strand gets fixed to the anchor, and the Grigri partner raps first. If you're climbing something harder/steeper, get the microtraxion. Self-belay: solo climbing with one or two fixed ropes. Jan 3, 2024 · For example, the GriGri + takes an 8. Only the basic technique is described here. It does not work well on over-hang or roofs. But if you're doing normal top rope climbing, your belayer has a belay device, and that's it, no backup. Check out the wren soloist. Lift up the plate and follow the rope diagram on the side of the GriGri to thread the rope correctly. Self-lowering. 4. For top rope belaying, the Grigri+ is the ideal choice. I will sometimes LRS up an easier route to then traverse into my project, build an anchor and then TRS the project. ipyosxec flmmga esxd ibno qzwf reju oqq goqk rwmdd xrc