Slip slap slide belay Setting up the Belay Device. Slip-slap-s Posted by u/Thnewkid - No votes and 15 comments This blog has a discussion of the slip-slap-slide and PBUS techniques for taking in rope when belaying. I found it annoying, but managed to jam it into my brain. I believe the thumb of the brake hand should point toward the belay device and the hands never match. The document has moved here. Bod-style harnesses with no belay loop would have the prusik clipped into the carabiner that is attached to the harness' waist and leg loops. Without a solid belayer and a quality belay device, you can put yourself in harm’s way. I know both BUS and slip-slap-slide, but prefer SSS. To pass the protection, slide prusik hitch through the carabiner on the fixed line and then clip the two strands of the prusik through that carabiner's gate. I will analyze this by comparing this to an older, less efficient belay method, commonly known as slip, slap, slide. 'Palm up'. Failure. I was wondering if this is a common trend switching over to BUS as the exclusive belay method. The sport of climbing h Understand the differences between all Belaying Devices and Learn how to use any of them Safely and Efficiently. Slip-slap-s The purpose of the present study was to identify the kinematic differences between two popular rock climbing belay techniques used in the United States: brake, under, slide (BUS) and slip, slap, slide (SSS) and their efficiency in stopping the fall This video illustrates the B. You should belay with a GriGri the same as you do with a tube-style device like an ATC. 00:00 Intro 02:07 Tube Style Devices 06:00 Assisted Belay Devices 07:41 Assisted Tubers 09:41 Cam Assisted 10:37 What happens if Belay device gets Trapped in the first bolt? 13:16 Proper way to Attach a Belay Device 16:58 How to go Hands Free / Tie Off? 18:35 Slip Slap Slide - WRONG Saved Content. Ventura County Council High Adventure Team | Ventura County 由於制動方向的轉變，Slip-Slap-Slide的確保方式開始受到挑戰。 在每一次的Slide後都要把制動手(Brake hand)往下壓， 而這時候就有人開始質疑，既然兩手都高於確保器的時候這麼危險， 那麼何不把兩手交換繩子的動作改在確保器以下做呢？ ClimbSource. . Especially during lead climbing, the point where the brake hand and load strands are both parallel presents a significant and unnecessary risk of slack feeding through the belay The more common way of belaying is called PBUS which stands for Pull, Under, Brake, Slide. – Qudit Commented Sep 13, 2018 at 4:23 PBUS 或 BUS: 為 Break, Under, Slide 的縮寫，台灣過去稱為 歐式 確保法，以下簡稱PBUS SSS: 為 Slip , Slap , Slide 的縮寫，台灣過去稱為 美式 確保法，以下簡稱SSS 確保是最基本的項目之一， 目前主要的確保法大約在15年前 (2000 年左右)，國際上就已經切換成 PBUS。然而在 Dec 11, 2014 · Seattle Climbing will also start teaching PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under-slide, aka "Pull, Brake, Up-Slide") belay instead of the old fashioned SSS (Slip, Slap, Slide) belay in this year's basic course. U. Slip your guide hand back up and use it to pinch (“slap”) the two strands of rope together in front of you. Slip-slap-s three different techniques for belaying first the P bus second pinky to Pinky third slip slap benefits of each this is not training just for demonstration pu This blog has a discussion of the slip-slap-slide and PBUS techniques for taking in rope when belaying. Aug 19, 2013 · Full Playlist: https://www. Amenities The slip/slap/slide belay technique she’s using is pretty dated and while it’s technically not unsafe, the more modern PBUS method is generally regarded as safer. So, use Slip, Slap, Slide, or PBUS. Sometimes PBUS belaying isn't an option because of the belayer's position. 6. S. Feb 12, 2018 · How to belay. Slip-slap-s Moved Permanently. The first method has been around for a long, long time and is colloquially-called the slip-slap-slide (or slip-slop-slide) method. Many people who use the technique make significant mistakes and the only reason there haven't been more tragedies with this technique when performed poorly is pure luck. In this position, the device is always locked off. Sep 25, 2021 · My youth program (and also my climbing gym for after-midnight programs) requires backup belayers, and half-heartedly trains backup belayers to use a hip belay. Basic Climbing Knots Video. All the GriGri is is a tube-style device with a pinching cam that will often cinch down on the rope if it runs through the device too quickly. For a hip belay, rather than a friction-plate device, the older Slip-Slide-Slap belay method (Correct and incorrect slip-slap-slide belay technique) works well for managing the rope. belay technique. Moved Permanently. Photo Galleries; My Photo Gallery; Latest Photos; Weekly Top 10; Top 200 Photos Jul 5, 2023 · I learned Slip, Slap, Slide years ago, at another gym. Sometimes it won't do that. This method has the transition zone up by the belayers head, not down by the waist. Options for practicing all skills described on this sheet include: Phillips Outdoor Program Center · Set up a walking belay on exercise equipment near Old Lindseth with rope tail Bartels Hall, Campus Rd which can be popular rock climbingbelay techniques used in the United States: brake, under, slide (BUS) and slip,slap, slide (SSS) and their efficiency in stopping the fall of a climber. Jun 8, 2017 · Slip slap slide may be safe when done correctly, but PBUS is clearly more foolproof and that makes it the preferred technique in my book. The minimum age to belay is 13. a. It is important to be able to come together and share positive experiences. People kept the same hand motions even though dem new-fangled belay dee-vices really called for a different technique. In the way I've been seeing the "slip slap slide" that makes me uncomfortable, the hand that is pulling the climber strand grasps both ropes held together in front of the device-- the proper position for locking a munter hitch, but not for locking an ATC. In this case the Slip Slap Slide technique may be a Dec 1, 2016 · Since the braking plane is behind the body in a hip belay, the Slip-Slap-Slide method is best for a hip belay. Each belay device that you use, you must pass a separate Belay Test. Slide your break hand in toward your body and you’re ready to take up more slack. 7. An instructional video (A work in progress) on how to top rope belay using a gri gri. Apr 3, 2018 · There are discussions of PBUS vs slap/slide technique for top rope belays, but I can't find anything about my preferred technique, which is NOT PBUS, but which strikes me as The Best Way (described for right-handed belayer) P and B happen as before: Pull in slack, Brake with right hand. Brake Under Slide This blog has a discussion of the slip-slap-slide and PBUS techniques for taking in rope when belaying. The braking plane for a munter hitch is with the ropes parallel to one another. “Slap” the two ropes together in front of you. Jul 5, 2023 · I learned Slip, Slap, Slide years ago, at another gym. The break position is made stronger by two things: by having the belay arm under compression and by being closer to the center of gravity. Doing the PBUS style and yet having the lower/brake hand in front of the braking plane is dangerous as you have no friction. You need to belay like it won't work. May 6, 2012 · This belay method that has been used for decades (if not well over 100 years) is often times called the Hands Up or the Slip Slap Slide method; basically it is the method where you hold both hands up in front of you in order to belay. youtube. What do other climbers here use in Oct 22, 2013 · Many people are really freaked out by Slip-Slap-Slide, primarily because it is often done really poorly. Not Accepted: Slip Slap Slide a. Guides no longer teach the Slip-Slap-Slide technique to beginners. FOTH (9th ed, 2007, p 183-185) says "With the hip belay, the belayer can take in rope much faster than with other methods, and the hip belay can be set up quickly with a minimum of equipment. Belayers between 8-13 may become belay certified if they are a member of our of our youth The first method has been around for a long, long time and is colloquially-called the slip-slap-slide (or slip-slop-slide) method. So, what can you do? Read on and you’ll find out how to make do, plus types of belay devices, and all about belay safety to give you peace of mind when you get your thrills. What is the correct way to do this (including illustrations The ATC is a dynamic belay device. Spire Climbing Center is a climbing gym located in Bozeman, Montana an One of the first skills you need to master once you start climbing is how to belay. Begin by slipping your guide hand back down the rope toward the climber. Back when climbing was beginning to take off, instead of using fancy belay devices to remove slack from a line, the belayer would simply tie a Munter Hitch and clip it to a carabiner on his/her harness. Posted by u/38spcAR - No votes and 35 comments Understand the differences between all Belaying Devices and Learn how to use any of them Safely and Efficiently. Escaping the Belay (step by step) This blog has a discussion of the slip-slap-slide and PBUS techniques for taking in rope when belaying. It was a maneuver that seemed designed during a meeting by a group of attorneys with the goal of never letting the break hand leave the rope, technically. Dec 3, 2024 · To slide your brake hand along the rope, use the slip-slap-slide method. Feb 13, 2018 · Two things to note, people will say that this is safer than the slip-slap-slide method, and they are usually right, but you have to watch the braking plane. To recreate together, to appreciate the natural world, to support one another as we find our growth edge, and to encourage each other to do the best we can. At 3:02 we review how to tie a Figure 8 and then the Figure 8 follow Through. k. Slip-slap-s The purpose of the present study was to identify the kinematic differences between two popular rock climbing belay techniques used in the United States: brake, under, slide (BUS) and slip, slap, slide (SSS) and their efficiency in stopping the fall of a climber. Pull or take in the rope slack as the climber ascends the climbing wall. This guy is clearly holding his hands above the ATC in what I assume is some poor variation of the "Slip Slap Slide" belay method, and should the climber fall while his hands are in this position, the rope will not brake and the rope will fly through the device as if it's not even there. You Shop We Donate 1% to a cause. In this case the Slip Slap Slide technique may be a better option. In this REI Expert Advice video, we show you how to prepare to belay, per Aug 22, 2019 · I hate PBUS! Though I do the two-handed hand-over-hand belay for TR (just easier to haul rope fast for a quickly-moving climber, and to do a super-tight take for the skittish “I want to feel some tension” noob), Mo Beck has been doing the one-handed slide brake by necessity for as many years as she’s been climbing, and I’ll gladly take her belay over some noob PBUSing the shit out of Nov 7, 2017 · First Visit & Day Rates. It was the only way to do a Hip Belay, and it worked well as the belay equipment evolved. com is your source for climbing gear and everything climbing. The method just kinda stuck around, which I understand; if you have something that works in a life-saving situation you're unlikely to want to change it. If between the ages of 13-15, they must pass the belay test 7 times in a row to get certified. Slip-slap-slide developed because that's the optimal technique for hip belays and munter hitches. If you google "How to belay", the first link will show a picture of how I believe you should NOT belay. Membership Rates & Perks. Gyms (and guides) have adopted the PBUS as the preferred technique. Demonstrated ability to use the facility preferred belay technique PBUS (Pull-Brake-Under-Slide) YES NO If applicant performed Slip, slap side technique do they understand limitations and was it perfect? YES/NA NO Did applicant demonstrate good belay stance and is aware that belays must be performed standing? YES NO Question two: is it reasonable to not hold the device at all while top rope belaying, and keep that brake hand the same as a PBUS ATC belay? Question three: On a top rope belay, if a hand is above the device to pull in slack, will that defeat it if there is a fall right then? Then, the big ticket issue. Providing a growing selection of products and climber resources gear reviews, guide pro-tips, setter pro-tips, and climber stories. I have learned two types of belay techniques: pull, brake, under, slide (PBUS) or slip-slap-slide. Slip-slap-s This blog has a discussion of the slip-slap-slide and PBUS techniques for taking in rope when belaying. The belayer’s strand of rope is threaded through the belay device according to the manufacturer’s specifications and attached to the belayer’s belay loop on their harness using a locked carabiner. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rop Dec 13, 2024 · Now, more than ever, we need community. Feb 10, 2010 · The other day I went to a climbing wall for the first time in forever and they only allowed the use of BUS belay. Use your guide hand to hold both ropes for a moment. Belay method Use the traditional slip-slap-slide method to belay: As your partner climbs, remove the slack by pulling the rope back around your body with both hands. Belay tags must be displayed at all times while belaying. The other hand (brake hand) then lets go and repositions,, or slides back into position. Slip-slap-s Belaying is one of the most important aspects of rock climbing. com/playlist?list=PLLALQuK1NDrjugIQA3Te01g3ksXghWCMR--Rockin’ Rock Climbing CommoditiesMomentum Climbing Harness: http://a How Risky or Not Risky is to Tunnel Brake Hand Up when you are taking Slack during Lead Belay?I have seen many arguing about this, so decided to do these exp Jul 20, 2006 · Because of this, I have always disliked how most people are taught to belay. 00:00 Intro02:07 Tube Style Devices06:00 Assi Dec 10, 2013 · The slip slap 'n slide method is a holdover from the ancient days of the hip belay, when it made perfect sense (as it still does with a Munter hitch). Five male subjects with no previous belaying experience from rock two different beginning climbing classes were recruited to participate in the study (n = 10). Here is a video demonstrating PBUS. This blog has a discussion of the slip-slap-slide and PBUS techniques for taking in rope when belaying. Then grab brake strand with LEFT hand ABOVE the right hand. PBUS has been the industry standard for quite a while and it has been proven to be easier to learn and safer for beginners . Slip-slap-s popular rock climbingbelay techniques used in the United States: brake, under, slide (BUS) and slip,slap, slide (SSS) and their efficiency in stopping the fall of a climber. unrr xva cczx vflzha rlp rjphuh nhkmpyt vvbp dhohm ylvie